If You Like Frittatas, You will Love This Herb-Packed Persian Egg Recipe

Kookoos are a well-liked and huge class of Persian egg-centric dishes, essentially the most well-known of which is the herb-packed selection kookoo-sabzi that I am sharing my recipe for right here. Whereas it may be tempting to say that kookoos are the Persian model of well-known Western egg-centric dishes corresponding to souffle, omelette, frittata, and quiche, these phrases don’t adequately describe the character of Persian kookoos.

Not like souffles, kookoos don’t fall. Not like quiches, kookoos would not have a crust. Not like omelettes, kookoos usually are not folded or rolled and are a lot thicker than the standard omelette. The combination-ins of kookoos are chopped into a lot smaller items than these of typical frittatas and a few kookoo mix-ins are even mashed. Subsequently, the easiest way to consult with this class of Persian egg-centric dishes is solely what Persians and Iranians name it: kookoo. 

There’s all kinds of kookoos within the Persian cookery panorama: They are often made with completely different members of the allium household (onions, garlic, chives, leeks), completely different greens (eggplant, zucchini, celery, inexperienced beans, fava beans, beets, spinach), completely different starchy root greens (potatoes, candy potatoes, yams), and even recent unripe inexperienced almonds.

The phrase sabzi means inexperienced herbs, and a kookoo-sabzi is filled with recent, inexperienced herbs like cilantro, parsley, and dill. They’re finely minced together with fragrant alliums such a Persian leaks, chives, or scallion greens. Whereas most kookoos are vegetarian, there are some meat-based kookoos the place finely minced lamb, beef, poultry, or seafood is integrated, together with a number of greens. 

Regardless of the selection, the kookoo substances are totally combined with whisked eggs, nicely seasoned, and cooked on the stovetop till the outside is calmly browned on either side and the egg combination is agency. A completed kookoo is often an inch- to an inch and a half–thick disc that is sliced and served in wedges. Versatile and various, kookoos could be loved scorching or chilly, as a predominant course, aspect dish, snack, and even as a sandwich. They’re excellent for consuming at residence or taking alongside to potlucks and picnics.

The Etymology, Historical past, and Custom of Kookoos

The earliest identified references to kookoos within the Persian culinary panorama are within the two oldest surviving Persian cookbooks from the sixteenth century. The truth that kookoos are referred to in each of those cookbooks is a sign that they had been well-known within the space that’s now Iran throughout that timeframe.

A number of meals historians and culinary writers, together with Alan Davidson, Editor of The Oxford Companion to Meals, and Heather Arndt Anderson, writer of Breakfast: A Historical past, inform us that the earliest omelettes are thought to have been cooked within the historical Persian and Arab worlds. Kookoos can then be thought of as an evolution of these early omelettes. The idea of those early omelettes seems to have moved all through the Center East and North Africa earlier than reaching Europe, morphing into such culinary delights because the Spanish tortilla and Italian frittata. 

The closest comparability to kookoo in different meals cultures is probably going the tortilla de patatas (or tortilla Española), a well-known Spanish egg and potato dish. However though the cooking approach (together with the flipping half) and the thickness of those two egg dishes are comparable, the remainder of it (significantly the scale and number of mix-ins) could be very completely different. It must also be famous that in up to date Center Japanese cookery—significantly in Egypt—there’s a comparable class of dishes generally known as eggah.

Kookoo-sabzis originated from Azari communities in northwestern Iran, not stunning as kookoo-sabzi can be widespread within the nation of Azerbaijan—the northeastern neighbor of Iran. Nowadays, kookoo-sabzi is widespread throughout all the nation of Iran in addition to within the Iranian diaspora around the globe.

One motive for kookoo-sabzi’s fame and recognition is that it is among the key components of an important meal throughout Nowruz, the Persian New Yr celebrations. On this meal, herb-flavored steamed rice–referred to as sabzi-polow–is accompanied by wedges of kookoo-sabzi and pan-fried fish. As well as, kookoo-sabzi is a crucial a part of Christmas and Easter meals for Iranian Armenians.

Key Components in an Herb Kookoo

Herbs: Herbs play a essential position in Persian cookery as they’re used throughout all sorts of savory dishes. Kookoo-sabzi makes use of a number of completely different herbs. In relation to the combination of recent herbs, kookoo-sabzi could be very forgiving. So long as you’ve gotten a complete of about 15 ounces (400g) of combined chopped recent parsley, cilantro, dill, and leek, per eight eggs, you should have a profitable kookoo-sabzi. 

Persian Leek: Persian leek (Allium ampeloprasum ssp. persicum) is a cultivated allium native to the Center East and Iran. It has a gentle oniony taste and is eaten each uncooked and cooked in a variety of Persian dishes. It’s referred to as tareh in Persian. It resembles the highest half of frequent leek in look (folded flat linear leaf sheaths) however is far thinner, smaller, and extra delicate.

Persian leek is usually incorrectly labeled garlic chives or spring onions however is completely different from these crops. Persian leeks are used, together with different herbs, in conventional Persian soups, meat braises, meat dumplings, and stuffed greens. Recent Persian leeks are low-cost and are sometimes obtainable year-round in specialty Persian, Afghani, and Center Japanese markets. For those who would not have entry to those specialty markets, you’ll be able to simply substitute an equal quantity by weight of the inexperienced elements of scallions, chives, and even the center third part of standard frequent leeks.

Whereas diced dried Persian leeks are generally obtainable in Persian, Afghani, and Center Japanese markets, their taste suffers tremendously when dried. If recent leeks are unavailable, go for the recent substitutes talked about within the recipe quite than dried Persian leeks. Chopped recent Persian leeks are very freezer pleasant. When they’re obtainable, I all the time purchase a big amount, chop them finely, and freeze them in one-cup parts in freezer luggage.

Fenugreek: Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) is an annual plant. Its leaves include three obovate leaflets (teardrop-shaped with stems connected to the tapering finish). Its leaves (recent or dried) have been used as an herb and its seeds as a spice since historical occasions.

Recent fenugreek leaves are barely bitter, however as soon as cooked, they tackle a delicate bittersweet taste and a uniquely pleasing aroma that fills the kitchen–usually lingering for days. It’s the herb that defines not solely this well-known Persian kookoo but in addition essentially the most well-known Persian braised meat dish, ghormeh-sabzi.

Recent fenugreek turns into obtainable for a brief interval between late spring and midsummer. It is rather troublesome to search out recent fenugreek in North America or Europe. Some specialty Persian, Afghani, or Indian markets might carry it throughout its quick rising season. Nonetheless, virtually talking, all Persian residence cooks use dried crushed fenugreek leaves for this dish, and so do you have to. 

It’s a highly effective dried herb, so a small quantity goes a good distance. Dried crushed fenugreek leaves are available within the spice part of many nicely stocked supermarkets, and in all specialty Center Japanese, Mediterranean, and Indian markets, in addition to by way of quite a lot of on-line spice markets corresponding to Penzeys, Kalustyan’s, and The Spice House. Please notice that this dish makes use of fenugreek leaves, not fenugreek seed, which is a well-liked spice in Indian cookery.

Dried Barberry: Barberries (berberis) are the tiny, vibrant crimson fruit of a spiny shrub. Wealthy in vitamin C and pectin, they’ve a nice tangy taste. In Persian cookery, barberries are used broadly as a souring agent in rice dishes, braises, and egg-centric dishes, the place they supply sensible dots of vivid crimson in addition to bursts of intense taste. Not like crushed dried fenugreek leaves, dried barberries are carried by only a few neighborhood grocery shops within the West. Nonetheless, they’re available in all specialty Center Japanese and Mediterranean markets, or for on-line buy.

For those who’re unfamiliar with barberries, I like to recommend you get to know them. They’re exhibiting up an increasing number of in widespread culinary writings and recipes. I’m sure that barberries will quickly develop into the following za’atar, the following sumac, or the following pomegranate molasses.

Each crushed dried fenugreek leaves and dried barberries are additionally obtainable by way of on-line shops specializing in Persian substances, corresponding to Kalamala Persian Grocery, Sadaf, Persian Basket, and Tavazo—and naturally on Amazon.com. 

Strategies for Flipping the Kookoo

Typically talking, all kookoos are made by beating many eggs, including a great quantity of finely chopped uncooked or cooked mix-ins, and pan-frying the combination in a sauté pan or skillet till agency on the underside and on the edges, however nonetheless a bit runny within the heart and high. The partially cooked kookoo is then flipped (in a single piece or in manageable segments) to cook dinner the opposite aspect. Since either side of the kookoo are involved with the new floor of the pan, a scrumptious, very skinny, golden pores and skin is fashioned on either side of the kookoo. 

The one semi-tricky a part of making kookoos is flipping the partially cooked egg combination. For these much less skilled, flipping the big spherical kookoo in a single fluid swoop might seem to be a frightening job. To assist with this, I’ve given choices for flipping it, and no matter which flipping methodology I take advantage of to make sure the kookoo flips simply, I all the time mud off my hardly ever used nonstick skillet for making kookoo so it releases simply from the pan.

The primary methodology relies on the oldest detailed recipe for kookoo from a Persian cookbook printed round 1520 describing this job: It directs the cook dinner to chop the partially cooked kookoo into segments (usually 4 quarters) and flip every individually. That is the most typical (in addition to best and most secure) flipping methodology amongst Persian residence cooks and is according to my very own childhood recollections watching relations making kookoos. 

The second methodology, which is a bit tough and extra dangerous than the primary, is to flip all the partially cooked kookoo in a single piece. No, I don’t imply to flip it into the air with a single flick of the wrist after which attempt to catch it again within the skillet. It’s too heavy, and the center of it’s too runny for such TV present motion. You’d find yourself with splattered egg mess throughout your kitchen flooring.

To flip the kookoo in a single piece, as soon as the eggs are partially cooked however the center remains to be a delicate and runny, work over the sink (in case something is dropped) and maintain the skillet with one hand, and switch a big plate (or another heatproof vessel such a baking sheet or heatproof reducing board) on high of the skillet. Put a dish towel on high of the plate, place your hand on high of the dishtowel, and, in a single fast movement, invert the skillet so the kookoo falls into the plate. Return the now empty skillet again to the stovetop, add one other tablespoon of butter or oil to the skillet, and punctiliously slide the kookoo from the plate again into the skillet to proceed the cooking course of.

In case you are fortunate sufficient to have two skillets roughly the identical measurement, you may as well flip the kookoo into the second skillet: When it’s time to flip the kookoo, evenly unfold the one tablespoon of butter or oil within the second skillet. Take the skillet that has the partially cooked kookoo over to a sink, flip over the second skillet on high of it. Put a dish towel on high of the second skillet, place your hand on high of the dishtowel, and, in a single fast movement, invert the primary skillet inflicting the kookoo to fall into the second skillet. Proceed the cooking course of with the partially cooked kookoo within the second skillet.

As soon as you’ve got gotten your kookoo flipped, the onerous work is finished, and all that is left after it finishes cooking is to slice, serve, and revel in!

How one can Serve Kookoo-Sabzi

Since most frequently kookoo-sabzi (and all different sorts of Persian kookoo) is made in a spherical frying pan, it’s usually served in wedges. Wedges of kookoo-sabzi (and all different sorts of Persian Kookoos) could be served as a starter or a aspect dish. It may well additionally represent the principle part of a meal when accompanied with, for instance, a bowl of Persian yogurt with cucumber dish, mast-o-khiar, a plate of recent herbs, and a few flat bread. 

Kookoos are additionally widespread as an accompaniment for a rice-based meal. In reality, the oldest kookoo-sabzi recipe from the sixteenth century suggests or not it’s served together with conventional Persian steamed rice, chelow. 

Persians adore kookoo-sabzi sandwiches, historically constructed with Persian bolki bread, which might simply be substituted with any available roll you want. For the most effective expertise, attempt a crusty Vietnamese banh mi roll. Hero rolls, ciabatta, baguettes, or batons additionally work nicely. To assemble your excellent kookoo-sabzi sandwich: Slit your chosen bread roll open. Slather the within with butter and your most well-liked spicy mustard. Fill the sandwich with a number of items of chilly kookoo-sabzi. Add thinly sliced tomatoes and dill pickle strips. For an additional textural dimension, add a number of walnut halves, or unfold a teaspoon of dried barberries on the within of the bread for additional tanginess.